Being a member of the Curly Nikki Hair Forum's I come across a lot of Transitioners and New Naturals who express the feelings of being overwhelmed, confused, and consumed by the research they do of natural hair on the internet. This post is for those people. There is no need to fear, natural hair is not rocket science. It's only as difficult as you make it. Of course there are some situations that need extra care and attention, but this is just for those who need a quick and easy understanding of what a hair regimen looks like. First and foremost, understand that you can't inquire other people about
YOUR hair and expect to get the correct answer. Your hair is unique, so everyone's staple products/methods may or may not work for you.
I'm going to give you a crash course in hair care right now, by telling you what I believe are the 4 most important things you need to take care of your hair. I basically do the minimum to take care of my hair and I am proud to say that it is very healthy. So this is going to be simple and to the point. Just think of it as a foundation to start you off. Keep in mind that the products I use are only suggestions for you (pictured below). I can only tell you what needs to be achieved but you'll have to find your own way to get there, through trial and error. Without further adieu the 4 things you need to do to achieve healthy hair in order of most important to least important are:
Moisturize/Seal, Cleanse, Condition, and Style. I'll throw in some asterisks of other methods to look into if what I've listed doesn't work for you.
1. Moisturize/Seal
Why it's important: Dry/Brittle hair is susceptible to breakage and damage, therefore length can't be retained. So keep your hair hydrated.
How Often: Daily moisturizing as needed.
How it's done: Moisturizing your hair can be done a number of ways. The best moisturizer of all is water. So one way to do it is to start by wetting your hair. You can either do this after washing your hair or just simply spraying it with water. Next, apply an oil to your hair focusing on the ends to seal them (I skip this step). There are many oils to choose from. I suggest grapeseed or sweet almond oil. Lastly, apply a water based product to your hair to complete the sealing process. Water based simply means that water/aqua is the first ingredient listed on the label.
Sometimes I have a quick moisturizing session where I'll just apply a product to my dry hair and keep it moving. It's sort of like a quick pick me up if my hair feels a little dry. Just remember MOISTURE is key!
*LOC Method
2. Cleansing
Why it's important: I call it cleansing instead of shampooing because some people only use conditioner to wash their hair. Whatever you use make sure you cleanse your scalp thoroughly. Hair grows from the scalp so keep it healthy and clean so it can thrive.
How Often: Either once a week or once every other week.
How it's done: If your hair is short, don't worry about sectioning. Simply cleanse your hair is you would with relaxed hair. If your hair is long, you can section your hair into large twists and wash your hair section by section in order to keep it from becoming tangled.
Along with cleansing goes something that I have yet to do. Clarifying. People have different ways to clarify their hair and scalp, but the most popular are ACV (apple cider vinegar) rinses and the bentonite clay method. You'll have to do your own research on how to clarify because I don't do this to my hair. Clarifying is just a more thorough cleansing.
*Curly Girl Method
3. Conditioning
Why it's important: Think of conditioning as a more intense form of daily moisturizing and sealing. So whenever your hair is suffering from dryness or breakage, conditioning will help.
How often: This varies, I say deep condition either once a week or every other week. And co-wash as needed. I used to co-wash everyday but now its about 2-3 times a week.
How it's done: In order to deep condition (DC), you'll need heat. It can be heat from steam, a hooded dryer, or just plain body heat. Invest in plastic baggies or make sure you save the plastic bags you get from the store. Apply a conditioner to your hair. Preferably something that promotes itself as being a deep treatment. After the conditioner is fully distributed in your hair, put on your plastic baggy. For the heat, if you don't want to spend money on a steamer or hooded dryer, you can use the steam from your shower. Or you can cover your head with a hat or scarf to let your body heat do the work. Either way is acceptable. Do this for about 15-30mins. then rinse. Cowashing is simple. Just wash your hair with conditioner as you would with shampoo.
*Protein Treatments, Hot Oil Treatments, Pre-Pooing
4. Styling
Why it's important: To look good of course! But its also good to protect your hair from over manipulation and cold/dry weather conditions.
How often: I style my hair about once a week. Although some protective styles last a few months so styling isn't needed as often.
How it's done: Now it's time for you to get creative. Of course certain styles come with length so you may be limited in this category. Coils can be done at just about every stage. If your hair is long enough to add hair/yarn, try some braids or twists. It's all up to you. When styling your own hair, it can be done on wet, damp, or dry hair. It's whatever you prefer. Just make sure your hair is safely styled, meaning your edges aren't pulled too tightly for a long period of time.
Remember, when buying products start cheap, and don't get caught up in what ingredients people tell you to stay away from because they might work for you. You'll learn what ingredients are best for you as time goes on. Also, if you don't like a product you've used, try using it a different way. For instance, I didn't like the deep treatment masque as a DC so I used it to twist my hair instead. If that doesn't work try selling it/giving it to someone else. Lastly, if it's not broke, don't fix it! If you find a product that works for you, use it until its gone. Then you can buy other things. No need to be a product junkie!
I hope this was helpful and not overwhelming. You may come across several different ways to take care of your hair, but in actuality, as long as your scalp is clean and your hair is moisturized, there is no wrong way to do it. So use this as a guide, but find what works best for you!
